No Borders Tour

Versione italiana

We are in the Carnic Alps. Coincidentally we choose a path called "Senza Confini Tour" (No Borders Tour). It is a loop trail that connects Italy to Austria. It starts at the border of the Pramollo Pass (Nassfeld in German) and returns to it after long following the border line and then crossing it so to continue on the other side. Even during COVID 19 times, the trail is not really controlled. It's already a lot if someone waits at the border guard of this remote mountain pass. Since Yasmin, my girlfriend, lives in the Austrian region beyond these mountains (the Kärnten region) and I have moved to Tolmezzo in Friuli... now there are not many kilometres between us. After weeks of quarantine, we decided that it's time to take a nice walk and meet halfway. With the masks on but in person. Or at least that was the plan...

My day starts a little weird. Once I have everything I need, I leave the house with the mask over my mouth. While starting the car I already feel uncomfortable, so you can imagine how I feel when I pass by the police patrol next to the motorway. For me the terrible thing about COVID 19 times is that you're never 100% sure that what you're doing is actually allowed. So it freaks you out to take the car and drive 30 or 40 kilometres away, even though that should be allowed if the purpose is hiking. But nobody stops me and I eventually reach Pontebbe, a small mountain village and second-last exit of the Udine-Tarvisio motorway. 

From Pontebbe starts the mountain road of Passo Pramollo, which I have no difficulty in finding. Only problem: the road is closed at kilometer 5 for maintenance works.

"Bloody maintenance! And it doesn't say anything about it on the internet."

"Ah no, wait a minute... today is Saturday. Bust my ass, it’s open during weekends!" 

The hairpin bends are starting. And the tunnels. Machines encountered: one. When I'm at the top I communicate with Yasmin, who is on the other side of the border, and we set off. Each on his own side. 

Immediately I'm captivated by the landscapes. "It’s actually mountain!" as my mom comments on whatsapp. The fact is that, in the enchantment and the spipulation on the phone, I miss the first of the two huts, the only references I have on the map. You must know that I "built" this map myself, loading the route of the path in gpx format on a website that allows you to create your own map. But maybe I chose toolow of scale and I forgot to put the reference bar for distances. So when I reach the second hut I'm convinced it must be the first one, cause I feel like I’ve walked too little to be there already. So I don't turn left but shoot straight, hoping to find soon a sign for the second hut. Which doesn't come.

The Italian alps. In front, Monte Bruca with its unusual morpholog; in the background, the peak of Jof di Montasio (2753m)

In the meantime the path begins to climb and the vegetation changes. Have I reached the altitude where only shrubs and bushes grow? Or is the aridity of this stony ground the reason why there are no more trees? Suddenly I see some rock pinnacles on the right and, under the scorching midday sun, I feel for a second like I am in a western movie. But at the top I also see the end of the slope, so I breathe deeply and push on my calves. But to my disappointment, when I reach the top, on the other side I see a green plateau with another mountain behind it. This confuses me and makes me doubt a little bit about my position... I scream and it seems to me to hear a distant answer from Yasmin. My phone is ringing, it must be her. No, it's Vodafone. They want to give me a better deal for my phone. I decline and shout again and again, but this time I don't get an answer. What to do? Should I call Yasmin? Noo, let’s walk more. 

Here and below, a trait of the 504 trail passing between Monte Corona and Monte Cerchio

The Plateau before Malga Cerchio

When I’m close to the top of the other mountain, without having yet crossed Yasmin or at least received a shout back, I have more alarming doubts about my real position. The doubts are confirmed by a group of hikers passing by, when I ask them for information. And well the gist is that I’ve walked for two hours in the wrong direction. I communicate this to Yasmin, who has already reached the place of the appointment a while ago and is fortunately a girl with great patience, who will wait for me . 

The problem is that the first hut still corresponds to the second one in my head. So despite my attempts to run and rush back faster, my arrival will be actually delayed even longer! By now I'm also exhausted, my water has run out long time ago, so I'm drinking  water from the streams (which is surprisingly tasty). When in the distance I see a pink thing hanging on the tip of a small tree I get a bit confused. Because between my nearsightedness and my psychophysical state I see a big cow udder instead of Yasmin's shirt, hanging there to attract the attention of her idiot boyfriend. 

Well, it worked. I recognize her not far away, lying on the grass. She sees me too, and she comes towards me laughing, while I feel a bit like the old Ulysses coming back from Penelope after twenty years. Only difference is that one morning was enough for me...

The first hut (which was actually the second one) behind a flourished branch of larch 

I'll save you the rest. Apart from one realization that I have while I'm there with her: being physically together makes me immediately remember why she and I are together, and it's a wonderful feeling. Cause when we are apart everything becomes flat and blurry. Even a little distressing if I may venture. In short, just when I realize how much difference it makes to have your loved ones around... it's already time to go. Yasmin kisses me and heads back to her side of the border, while I go back to mine. 

Then the descent. Completely different than the ascent. Down the empty winding road, now that I know my way (not only the geographical one), I feel a little bit like I own the world and I enjoy it. In the radio a violin from a Slovenian station plays, while the green Friulian landscapes get me again. The only ones not enjoying this symphony of happiness are the Fiat Qubo's brakes.

The Italian border at Passo del Pramollo

The green landscape around Pontebbe

The Fiat Qubo, loyal companion of many trips